Lawn Care Automation Lawn Care Automation 🌱 Lawn care · seed · free, no login
The grass you have (or the one your shade wants), at the extension-service rate for your goal, times your square footage. The one number almost nobody knows is the square footage — which is why the map comes first.
✓ Extension-service rates ✓ Every assumption printed ✓ Honest about what a slider can't know
Not ready to map? Type it in — the same engine, a quick number.
1 · How much lawn?
Lot ≠ lawn: the house, drive, beds and patio come out. We'll assume ~60% of the lot is grass (≈ 6,000 sq ft) until you map it — and seed is priced per 1,000 sq ft, so this is the single biggest guess on the page.
2 · Where are you?
The region picks your climate zone, which sets the seeding and aeration windows and, if you don't know your grass, the grass we assume. Your map uses your exact latitude.
3 · What grass is it?
Not sure which you have? The grass guide tells them apart in a minute — or send a photo to the check-up in the app.
4 · What are you trying to do?
🌱 Seeding
🥬 Feeding
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🗓 Timing for your region
Next up
🤖 When the mower goes back on
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It depends on the grass and whether you're overseeding an existing lawn or seeding bare soil. Tall fescue: 3–4 lb per 1,000 sq ft to overseed, 6–8 lb for a new lawn. Kentucky bluegrass: 1–1.5 and 2–3. Perennial ryegrass: 3–4 and 6–9. Bermuda (hulled): 0.5–1 and 1–2. The calculator multiplies the rate by your square footage and rounds it into bags — 10,000 sq ft of tall fescue overseeds with 30–40 lb, 2 × 20-lb bags.
The grass you already have, unless the spot is the reason it failed. Match the lawn: fescue seed on a fescue lawn, bluegrass on bluegrass, so the color and texture blend. Two exceptions: a shaded corner wants a fine fescue 'dense shade' blend whatever the sunny lawn is, and a lawn that's failing everywhere is a chance to switch to the grass your climate zone actually wants. Not sure what you have? The grass guide tells them apart, or send a photo to the free check-up in the app.
Cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass) want late summer to early fall — soil around 50–65°F, warm days, cool nights and the weeds winding down. Spring is second-best and fights crabgrass pre-emergent. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, zoysia, centipede) seed in late spring once the soil holds 65–75°F. Pick your region above and the plan prints the window; map your lawn and it uses your actual latitude.
Perennial ryegrass 5–10 days, tall fescue 7–14, Kentucky bluegrass 14–30 (the slow one), Bermuda 7–14, zoysia 14–21, centipede 14–28. Keep the top half-inch moist the whole time — two or three light waterings a day beats one soaking.
Germination plus ten to twenty-one days, so about 17–35 days after seeding for tall fescue, when the blades reach the top of the grass's range plus half an inch (4.5″ for fescue). Sod: ten to fourteen days, once a tug on a corner doesn't lift it. Then bring the height down a notch at a time and ramp the frequency. A robot mower is light and takes a few millimetres a pass, which is exactly what young grass wants.
Because seed and feeding are priced per 1,000 square feet, and almost nobody knows their lawn's square footage — people know their lot, and the lawn is a good deal smaller once the house, drive, beds and patio come out. The map measures the grass on satellite in about two minutes, and the plan re-figures on the real number, your real latitude and your state's fertilizer rules.
Back to the lawn-care hub · repairing bare spots · mowing new grass with a robot · feeding by season · aeration and dethatching
Where the numbers come from: seeding and feeding rates are the ranges university extension services publish per 1,000 sq ft; state fertilizer rules follow each state's lawn-fertilizer law; germination and soil temperatures are seed-industry norms.